Hungarian Sauerkraut Goulash: A Taste of Austro-Hungarian Comfort

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Szegediner Gulasch, a hearty stew of pork and sauerkraut, is a culinary bridge between Hungary and Austria. While often associated with Vienna today, its roots lie firmly in Hungarian cuisine, where it’s known as székelygulyás. This dish isn’t just a meal; it’s a reminder of how food travels and evolves, carrying flavors and traditions across borders.

Why This Goulash Stands Out

The key to an exceptional Szegediner Gulasch lies in balance. Smoked bacon adds depth, while the tang of sauerkraut cuts through the richness of the pork. Paprika, both sweet and hot, provides warmth and complexity, creating a stew that’s both comforting and stimulating. The final touch of sour cream, thickened with flour, creates a silky sauce that coats every bite.

The Making of Flavor: A Step-by-Step Approach

The process is designed to maximize flavor development. Searing the pork shoulder in steaks, rather than cubes, ensures a deep, caramelized crust without drying out the meat. The bacon isn’t just for flavor – it renders fat that’s crucial for browning the onions and searing the pork. Adding the sauerkraut later prevents it from becoming mushy, preserving its signature texture.

“If you grew up eating pork and kraut… this is a combo that just speaks to you.”

This statement from a seasoned food traveler highlights the emotional connection many have to this dish, especially those with Austro-German heritage.

The Recipe: A Modern Take on Tradition

This recipe balances authenticity with practicality. The use of store-bought stock is perfectly acceptable, though homemade will always elevate the dish. The flour-thickened sour cream is optional, but it adds a luxurious finish.

Ingredients:

  • 8 oz (225g) thick-cut bacon, diced
  • 2.5 lbs (1.1kg) boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch steaks
  • Kosher salt
  • 2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • 4 medium garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tbsp tomato paste
  • 2.5 tbsp Hungarian sweet paprika
  • 0.5 tbsp Hungarian hot paprika
  • 2 tsp dried marjoram
  • 1 tsp ground caraway seed
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 quart (1L) beef, chicken, or vegetable stock
  • 3 lbs (1.4kg) sauerkraut in brine, drained
  • 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
  • ¼ cup (60g) sour cream, plus more for serving
  • 3 tbsp heavy cream, milk, or water

Instructions:

  1. Render bacon in a Dutch oven until browned. Reserve the fat.
  2. Sear pork steaks in batches until browned on both sides. Cube the pork after searing.
  3. Sauté onions in the bacon fat until softened and browned. Add garlic and tomato paste, cooking for 1 minute.
  4. Stir in paprika, marjoram, caraway, and pepper. Cook for 1 minute.
  5. Return pork and bacon to the pot with stock. Simmer for 1 hour.
  6. Add sauerkraut and simmer for 45 minutes, until tender.
  7. Whisk flour into sour cream, then thin with cream or water. Stir into stew and simmer gently for 3 minutes to thicken. Season with salt if needed. Serve with extra sour cream.

The End Result: A Dish Worth Sharing

Szegediner Gulasch is more than just a recipe; it’s a story told through flavors. It’s a reminder that the best meals are often those with history, depth, and a touch of comfort. The resulting stew is hearty, flavorful, and deeply satisfying.

This dish represents a perfect blend of tradition and practicality, making it accessible to home cooks while preserving the essence of Austro-Hungarian cuisine.

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